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Posts Tagged ‘basement waterproofing michigan’

By: Ulf Wolf

Water, in large quantities, can be overwhelming. From Noah’s Ark in biblical times, to the Johnstown (Pa.) Flood in 1889, to the 2004 tsunami in the Indian Ocean, water can be as much of a troublesome part as fire. rod hole

But in smaller quantities, water can be good. You glug down a couple of glasses of it every day to stay healthy. You wash your car with a bucket full of it, or a load of clothes with a bit more. waterproofing rochester hills

In even smaller quantities—when it is condensed and diffused, and normally called moisture, it can cause as much heartache as a flood or other act of nature, especially in the construction industry. basement waterproofing michigan

Moisture can be a villain that everyone faces at some point or other.

In a country such as the United States, with many different climates and weather-zones, combating moisture intrusion and subsequent damage calls for unusual products and tactics depending on where in the country the war is being waged.

Part of this article surveys many of AWCI’s contractors to establish widespread use of tactics and products in various areas, but first, let’s review some basics.

Three Water Flavors
Moisture, which is to say water, comes in three different flavors: solid (ice), liquid (water) and gas (vapor).

Most builders have a respectable handle on the solid variety, and—especially in the South—have little or no trouble keeping it out of buildings. Many also have a fairly good handle on the liquid form. If whatever thing is causing headaches nowadays, it is vapor.

Maria Spinu, Ph.D., of DuPont Building Innovation, has made a brilliant livelihood of studying and combating vapors especially, and has this to share about it—and the dew point temperature—in an announcement for one of her 2005 lectures:

“Water exists on earth in three physical states that can undergo reversible phase transformations. Dew point temperature is the onset of the vapor-to-liquid conversion known as condensation.

“Moisture problems in structures are the result of liquid water accumulation within the building enclosure. The causes of liquid water within a building enclosure include liquid water intrusion or condensation of excess water vapor transported by air currents or in the course of diffusion.

“Dew point temperature is the temperature at which the concentration of water vapor reaches its saturation and will condense on cold surfaces to develop droplets of water. We often see condensation on windows or added cool building surfaces. This so-called surface condensation is not much of a problem. However, when condensation occurs within a building assembly (interstitial condensation) it can lead to moisture problems, which scale from building durability and performance, to indoor environmental quality (IEQ).”

Envelope Incursion
The purpose of a building’s envelope is to maintain the internal environment separate—and protected—from external conditions. This includes keeping the cold (or the heat) out and the heat (or the cold) in. Another reason of the envelope is to keep moisture out.

According to the McGraw-Hill Construction’s Continuing Education Center’s course on air barriers (January 2006), “Moisture, when it does enter the building, moves through the envelope as liquid water or as water vapors. The difference between the two physical states of water is the size of the molecular aggregates: liquid water exists as sizeable molecular aggregates (up to 100 molecules at room temperature), while water vapors exist as free molecules. Therefore, the transport mechanisms are different for liquid water and water vapors.”

Liquid Water. The main source of liquid water for above-grade walls is rainfall, which can find its way behind the exterior cladding and so be driven into the building enclosed space by four main forces:

• Gravity, which can draw water through openings and cracks, and into the construction assembly.

• Capillary forces, which act like a sponge sucking water through small cracks and pores. Smaller cracks result in greater capillary forces.

• Rain droplets can pass through openings in the exterior cladding, driven by the thrust of the falling rain.

• The pressure differential can push or suck water through openings and cracks, into the construction assemblage.

Water Vapor. When moisture enters the construction as water vapor, it enters the envelope either by air currents or by vapor diffusion.

For vapor diffusion to occur there has to be mutually a driving force and a passageway. In this case, the driving force is the difference in water vapor concentration (or difference in vapor pressure) across an assembly: Water vapors flow from an area of higher concentration (higher vapor pressure) to an area of lower concentration (lower vapor pressure).

However, looking at the practical side of things, experts estimation that the amount of moisture vapor shifted by air currents can be 100 to 200 times higher than the amount shifted by diffusion, and can account for more than 98 percent of all water vapor advance through the structure envelope.

The air current rule of thumb: Vapor flows from warm (high pressure) to cold (low pressure).

The Vapor Barrier
Keeping the moisture out (and away from insulation, where it could do major damage) is the principle of the vapor barrier. The main design decision is where, exactly, to place it, especially since vapor, reaching a vapor barrier and with nowhere else to go, will eventually accumulate, reach a dew point and turn into fluid water.

Heating or Cooling Climate. In a heating temperature—where a building is heated more days of the year than cooled—the vapor (by the warm-to-cold principle) will prevalently travel toward the exterior. In the cooling climate the opposite it true: Vapor will predominantly travel from outside the envelope toward the inside of the building.

Since barrier membranes are usually placed adjacent to wall insulation, the issue of where, exactly, you place it is determined by the prevalent vapor direction. If you happen to put it incorrectly—i.e., at the far side of insulation—as the vapor travels, condensation is likely to occur inside the insulation and degrade it considerably over time. Fiberglass can lose as much as 70 percent of its insulating properties when wet.

It is therefore crucial to place the barrier at the near side of insulation—as the vapor travels—so that steam hits the barrier ahead of entering insulation.

In a heating climate, that means placing the barrier in between the inside of the building and the insulation; in a cooling climate, between the outside of the building and the insulation.

Who Determines Placement?

When it comes to determining not only the risk for moisture intrusion, but the products—and their specific placement—to guard against it, the architect calls the shots.

As Bill McPherson of Central Ceilings in Massachusetts succinctly put it: “We do not devise, or suggest, solutions. We implement them.”

This sentiment is echoed throughout the country, where it is always up to the designer or the architect to detect and solve potential wetness issues.

But there is one interesting forewarning: According to Pat Arrington of Commercial Enterprises in New Mexico, the contractor license in his state lays the ultimate responsibility for any building problems at the contractor’s feet, whether he followed incorrect design information or not. So, New Mexico contractors, look out.

Gregg Conrad, president of CSW, Inc. in North Carolina, adds to that that if he notices something wrong as far as combating moisture goes, he would “raise a flag. Even though the engineer specifies the system, and we’re only responsible for applying it properly, if there’s an inconsistency in the design we have to make them informed of it.”

An Engineering Observation
Jim Stump is a Portland, Maine–based engineer with Criterium Engineers, a company of consulting engineers with more than 70 offices in North America. His view on moisture problems/solutions is well worth sharing: “Of course, moisture intrusion is always through the building envelope. How that occurs here in Portland, Maine, nevertheless, is different from how it occurs in North Carolina, and certainly unlike from, say, Phoenix, Ariz.

“The vapor barrier needs to be on the warm side of the insulation. That is the basic criteria. So, in the South, where the warm side of the insulation is usually the outside, and you are attempting to cool the inside, the vapor barrier would be in the direction of the outside of the building.

“In northern climates like here, it’s the opposite. The warm side of the building in the wintertime is the inside; the cool side is on the outside, so the vapor barrier should be toward the indoors.

“The difficulty with design comes in climates that are in-between, states like New Mexico or the mid-Atlantic states like Virginia or North Carolina, that you get both.

“The vapor moves from hot to cold, and when it reaches the dew point it will condense, and if that happens to be in the insulation, subsequently you have a problem.

“A critical issue when evaluating a building for moisture solutions is to view the building as an organic whole, and take all aspects into consideration.

“The climate is just one issue. You also have to evaluate airflow, blueprint, specific location—a building on top of a hill will behave quite differently from one down in a valley—the type of heating deployed, the type of cooling used. How much sun does it get? Is it a solar building? All of these things relate to the organic sum total that you need to consider.”

Fiberglass Insulation. As mentioned earlier, fiberglass degrades greatly whilst wet. Why precisely is that?

“Fiberglass insulation,” explains Stump, “relies on air pockets, and whilst it gets wet it loses those air pockets and, therefore, loses its insulation value.”

As much as 70 or 80 percent?

“It’s certainly possible. And I, unhappily, see that phenomenon quite often.”

Wood Framing. Stump has this to offer: “Some designers propose that when it comes to wood-framed walls, you should put a vapor barrier on both the inside and the outside to try to seal the wall.

“My experience is that, although this may look good on paper, in practice—because no barrier is ever 100 percent effective—you’re going to wind up trapping moisture in that wall.

“You have to consider that the wood frame has quite a bit of moisture in it already, even if it is a kiln-dried piece of lumber. Over time, it will lose some of that moisture, and this has to go somewhere. If sealed in, it will eventually reach dew point and condense inside the wall.”

Taking the Country’s Moisture Fighting Pulse
What products are used where? Keeping in mind that the contractor as a rule does not choose, nor recommend, the moisture fighting weapons he deploys, the question becomes as a substitute: Which products does he normally install (as specified by the architect)?

The brand names you would expect to hear are the names that popped out of the mouths of contractors from all over the country; it is their preferences in manufactured goods type that vary.

Gabriel Castillo of Pillar Construction in Virginia likes liquid-spread on membranes, which become part of the substrate. “When the liquid rolled on membrane dries, it hardens to a rubber-like, waterproof membrane, so you know that it will cover and seal well. There are no pores, no holes, no way for moisture to penetrate. … You just roll it on. It’s as if you were to apply a very thick paint.”

Stephen Angell, president of Cape Cod Plastering in Rhode Island, uses “a self-healing, peel-and-stick product, for external cladding.”

Robert Aird of Robert A. Aird, Inc. in Maryland does of lot of exterior insulation and finish systems and sees the gamut when it comes to product names, but he cautions about maintaining the integrity of the entire system: “Some [barriers] can be used with other products, but normally they are only tested and approved to work with their own EIF system.

He goes on to say, “In the last 10 years or so, though most actively over the last 3 or 4 years, we tape all sheeting joints, we spot the screw heads, we seal all penetrations and connections to other materials, and then spread over a liquid-applied barrier over the entire face of the building to create an air- and water-barrier—or a WRB, a weather resistant barrier.”

But in Florida, Eric Boulanger of Boulanger Drywall Corporation does not frequently see liquid applied membranes being applied.

Gerald Roach of Forks Lath & Plaster in North Dakota mostly sees the big brand names, but adds that “it’s also getting more common to do a sprayed-on or trowelled-on moisture barrier over the sheeting, particularly on bigger jobs like the Wal-Marts and motels.”

Glenn Sieber of Easley & Rivers, Inc. in Pennsylvania says, “What we now see more and more of is studs, sheeting, then a spray-on or a trowel-on or a place-and-press membrane for waterproofing—after that a rigid insulation.”

Richard Riley of Simpson Commercial Contracting, Inc. in Alabama: “On the exterior partition substrate we like to use a roller applied barrier, because they’re seamless. On the exterior wall—if we’re worried about moisture—we normally use an elastomeric finish.” Riley adds that all the major brands work.

The moral of this yarn is that if you can smell it, you missed a turn way earlier there, and you’re now facing damage control, literally … which usually means quite a few pounds of cure.

The ounce of prevention is to understand how moisture travels, and how to channel its movement.

Coeur d’Alene, Idaho–based Ulf Wolf writes for the construction trade as Words & Images.

If you determined that surface water is directed towards your home or that water is laying in low spots next to your home, you’ll have to consider doing some outside landscaping to re-contour the property around your home can lead to increased water pressure and basement leaks michigan.

If too much water is retained in the ground, the chance of water entering your basement exists, and the sole solution is to have your basement waterproofed. Before choosing to apply a basement waterproofing sealer from your local home center or, the more and more dramatic approach, digging up outside your home to put in drain tiles, do a little homework to work out what’s “causing” your problem. For example, painting your basement walls with a waterproofing paint, isn’t going to matter far when you’ve got a rain gutter downspout dumping huge volumes of water directly against your foundation. With a commonsense approach, you’ll fix the things that require fixing and finish up with better results.

Get a good dehumidifier to mechanically take away this additional humidity from your basement. Make sure to buy a deicer feature to forestall it from freezing up in the cooler lower level. A drain hose is another good feature. It will free you from having to empty the collection pan several times a day.

Plumbers have long been the go-to contractors to tackle sump pump installations, but whereas they will claim to own the knowhow and skills needed, their installation jobs will typically leave way to be desired. These installations will be messy, inefficient and hastily done. For a really professional, clean, and reliable sump pump installation you’ll trust a basement waterproofing contractor to do it right. Basement waterproofers try to take the time necessary so as to keep it running longer.

Check with the National Association of Waterproofing and Structural Repair Contractors (NAWSRC)for a contractor. Several contractors are members of this organization. Additionally, they even have loads of data on basement waterproofing and rod hole repair.

Before any basement transforming work is done, it’s necessary to possess proper waterproofing activities be done 1st or incorporated as half of the renovation work. This move would assure the home-owner of a secure basement atmosphere that will shield all and any home enhancements that they will undertake here. It makes no sense to begin a massive project in a basement simply to have it ruined and torn out later.

I suggest that you discover someone that has experience with waterproofing to facilitate you and provide guidance. If you’re building a house the dirt can already be away from the foundation, older homes will need you to rent a backhoe which can require a little more skill on your part. This project is doable therefore get out there and provide it a go.

Usually basements are notorious for being damp and musty. If there is an existing leakage problem, the source must be found and repaired. Sealant paints are out there for several basement applications, operating to prevent moisture from seeping into the basement walls. Otherwise you have to get basement waterproofing michigan done.

Some of the fashionable waterproofing techniques that are utilized for basements include the use of special watertight sealant on all surfaces within the basement as well as walls, ceiling and floors. A technique known as tanking can additionally be used and this involves coating not solely the inside walls of the basement but even the outer walls employing a highly water-resistant material to fix a basement flood. When the walls and flooring is sealed, a layer of waterproofing is added before putting an external layer of plywood or alternative most well-liked building fabric to shield the waterproofing. If you’re building a new house or have an older house speak to an organization in your space that focuses on waterproofing foundations. That will be expensive thus you will contemplate waterproof concrete yourself.

Get a smart dehumidifier to mechanically remove this additional humidity from your basement. Build certain to buy a deicer feature to forestall it from freezing up within the cooler lower level. A drain hose is another smart feature. It will free you from having to empty the collection pan several times a day.

Mold and its health effects to our bodies are well chronicled.There are definite relations between respiration conditions and obtaining exposed to mold.Folks currently suffering from chronic obstructive pulmonary disease are likely to develop lung infections if exposed to mold. And if the parents with asthma might even develop a severe asthma attack if exposed to mold.

How are you going to work out if you want a contractor for your waterproofing project? You ought to think about the skills that you just have. Whereas you may be in a position to try to to some jobs around the house, you actually would really like to assess your ability before you move forward. And bear in mind, you would like to be honest with yourself. If you fool yourself into thinking that you’ll do a job, you’ll understand out soon enough that you are in well over your head.

If your basement smells musty it’s as of water seeping through the concrete which causes mold and mildew. Once mildew spores settle in your basement all it needs is moisture to begin growing and digesting regardless of what it’s growing on. The bulk of common molds do not seem to be a priority to someone who is healthy. If you’ve got got allergies or asthma, molds will cause skin rash, eye irritation, cough, running nose, congestion, and aggravation of your asthma. It’s very vital to make sure your basement is waterproofed.