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Posts Tagged ‘puppy potty training’

While you are going to need some stacks of newspapers to house train your puppy, other items are needed as well. Paying attention, patience, consistency and commitment are a part of it as well.

To help you train your puppy or dog, use the guide listed below. Keep in mind that regardless of whether you have a puppy or a full grown dog, they are going to have accidents sometimes.

Be patient and consistent when training your puppy as this training period can last a couple of weeks or more.

Create a routine.

Puppies do better with regular schedules just like babies do. Setting up a schedule teaches him that there are certain times for eating, playing and going potty.

For every month of age, a puppy can control their bladder for an hour. So, if the puppy is two months old, then he can control his bladder for two hours. Remember this when taking your puppy out for potty breaks. Hiring a dog walker might be necessary if you work away from the home to keep the schedule.

Take your puppy outside as soon as he wakes up, after drinking or eating, and during or after playing. Also, choose a spot outside for the bathroom. Always take him to that spot while he is on a leash. Use words or phrases such as “get busy” while he is going to the bathroom. He will learn to associate these words with relieving himself.

Rewards are one way to teach your puppy. When he has finished using the bathroom praise him or give him a treat before he goes back into the house.

To help regulate his bathroom schedule, a regular feeding schedule should be use too. Eating three to four times a day is normal for puppies. By feeding him at the same time each day potty training him will be easier as well.

Always put your puppy’s dish up at least two hours before bedtime. This will help in keeping him from needing to use the bathroom in the middle of the night. Even he does wake up, remain calm, so he won’t think that it is playtime. Turn a few lights and do not play with him. Go straight to bed after taking him out.

Supervise.

While your puppy is in the house, watch him so he will not have an accident.

Keep your puppy near you using a six foot leash if you are not playing with or training him. Some signs that he may need to use the bathroom include scratching at the door or barking, restlessness, circling or sniffing. If you see your puppy acting like that, take him outside immediately. After he uses the bathroom, reward him with praise or a treat.

Learn to pick the correct Dog Bedding for your dog. Do not let Puppy Potty Training become a time consuming or frustrating affair.

Occasionally the difference between training management and restraint/control is too quickly confused. Using commands and hand signals, with leads or food rewards, to entice desired action is training management and often uses positive reinforcement techniques. Using choke or ‘no-barking’ collars, electronic enclosures and comparable devices is for effective restraint/control and often uses negative reinforcement.

Constraint and the use of control devices isn’t unavoidably a negative factor. Dogs naturally have and look for a community hierarchy in which someone is the boss and in any human-dog pair the person has to take that position. Sometimes control tools are called for to establish that hierarchy. If not established, the result will be property destruction, potentially unhealthy state of affairs for other animals and humans, human disappointment and an erratic dog.

Correction collars were developed to give a hand in gaining the ability to manage. Dogs, like humans, are individuals. Some are by nature more assertive or slower to be trained. For ones that don’t react positively to a typical leather or nylon collar, a metal choke collar can provide for extra discouragement from tugging and jumping up.

The imminent drawback is that, used inadequately – all too simple to do – correction collars can have the opposite result to what you expected and may even be unsafe. Choke collars fit only one way and when suitably fitted should make allowance for a one to three fingers opening between the neck and the collar. Three for bigger dogs, one for smaller. Generally speaking a collar two inches longer than the length around the neck will be adequate.

If used poorly, correction collars can rub the skin – producing irritated areas that your dog will likely scratch and make worse. These collars can also accidentally depress the windpipe. An instantaneous pull-and-release does no harm, however. Its intention is to generate unpleasant pressure. But for dogs that aggressively challenge the lead this action is probably not enough. Generally, overuse of this type of collar is not approved of, notably for smaller dogs.

Prong collars are less menacing than they look, but – in this trainer’s view – have almost no positive properties. The only positive aspect of the construction is their restricted diameter – they can only choke down so far. Nevertheless, an animal with such a determined predisposition to pull that prongs don’t give him a second thought requires more than a quick fix consisting of choking and poking. That type of critter needs dedicated attention and behavior modification management.

Halter collars, which envelop the neck and the muzzle, but don’t stop panting or prohibit drinking and eating can give further constraint. The drawback is they don’t inhibit biting if that’s an issue. If biting is not a problem an everyday tether and collar, or maybe a chest halter might be preferable.

For assistance with those dogs that carry on in barking long after the purpose of barking is gone, consider an electronic No-barking collar. Barking is an ordinary and natural response to possible menacing events and is also used to signal distress and gain attention when one becomes isolated from the communal pack. But, for reasons we don’t completely understand, some animals bark continuously or at the drop of a hat.

Electronic collars that deter barking come in two main varieties: Shock producing collars and noise producing collars. Noise collars create a brief, uncomfortable noise that acts as a diversion and helps to prevent unrelenting barking.

Shock collars generate a quick but discomforting electronic shock that can be sustained during lengthy or recurring barking. Evenhanded and objective experimentation to discover their effectiveness divulge mixed conclusions – they work with some dogs and not others. On the other hand, as with prong collars, any dog in need of one would profit if, in addition, he had precise, professional training using behavior modification methods.

Now and then quick fixes are appealing and worthwhile… until they become replacements for more constructive (both to trainer and dog) long-term management. Making the effort to understand how to access your dog’s focused attention and cooperativeness without disproportionate reliance on control equipment is better. The usual effect is happier trainers and more well adjusted dogs.

Learn how to pick the right Dog Bedding for your dog. Do not allow Puppy Potty Training become a time consuming or frustrating affair.